7/9/2012
![Picture](/uploads/1/2/5/5/12556517/752205.jpg)
Storm Chasing
We said our goodbyes to Aunt Jeannie and Uncle Jim and it was off to New Orleans! The trip took most of the day, but we arrived in the business district of downtown NOLA around 5:30pm. Sonja’s good friend, who was out of town, was kind enough to let us stay in her amazing condo for our three day stay.
We got settled in and cleaned up, then headed out on the town. The condo was close enough to walk to the nightlife of Bourbon St., so we decided to take the long way in order to really soak in the feel of New Orleans. We pursued parks, gandered at warehouse converted condos, and investigated cafes. But once we crossed Canal St., it was all business…party business.
We ducked into the Voodoo Liquor Store and bought a few bottles of the local Abita seasonal brew, poured it into some Solo cups, and joined in the carousing of Nola’s most famous street. There were fancy restaurants, burlesque shows, antique shops, sex toy stores, and drinks drinks drinks. All the tourists were hammered and all the locals were performing; doing anything they could to get you to come to their place. It was quite the spectacle of lights, comedy and sex.
We got settled in and cleaned up, then headed out on the town. The condo was close enough to walk to the nightlife of Bourbon St., so we decided to take the long way in order to really soak in the feel of New Orleans. We pursued parks, gandered at warehouse converted condos, and investigated cafes. But once we crossed Canal St., it was all business…party business.
We ducked into the Voodoo Liquor Store and bought a few bottles of the local Abita seasonal brew, poured it into some Solo cups, and joined in the carousing of Nola’s most famous street. There were fancy restaurants, burlesque shows, antique shops, sex toy stores, and drinks drinks drinks. All the tourists were hammered and all the locals were performing; doing anything they could to get you to come to their place. It was quite the spectacle of lights, comedy and sex.
![Picture](/uploads/1/2/5/5/12556517/9173153.jpg)
Kim's Manna
We were getting pretty hungry, so we started to weave in and out of other streets, looking for just the right place to have our first meal in Nola. And after much debate and menu shopping, we settled on a little place a few blocks off of Bourbon. The fare was simple, but local, and we all thought it would suit us perfectly…not only that, but they also had more of the Abita seasonal strawberry beer! But our luck didn’t end there! It just so happened that the owner of the establishment was testing out a few new recipes and asked if we would be willing to participate in a taste test, which of course we were! So, we got to try and vote on a couple of hamburgers and bowls of gumbo before we even ordered our meals. It was great! After our taste test, we ordered a shrimp poboy, a pulled pork sandwich, and roast beef with mashed potatoes. While everything was good, the pulled pork took the prize for the best.
![Picture](/uploads/1/2/5/5/12556517/5644374.jpg)
Balcony view of Bourbon Street
After dinner, we wandered from bar to bar, stopping to listen to all the live music, and eventually decided to order a drink at a place with a balcony where we could gaze down at the chaos and enjoy some serious people watching.
Eventually, we grew tired of our balcony and decided to head back to the condo, but Sonja insisted that no walk home would be complete without a bottle of marshmallow vodka…which we chased with coconut water. Oddly enough, it was delicious. And after Sonja had several shots of vodka, she was persuaded by Jesse to climb up onto a giant eagle statue that was guarding the entrance. Unfortunately, the eagle proved too big for Sonja to actually straddle for a picture…however, perhaps it was fortunate, because just as she was giving up, around the corner came two police officers who were polite enough to let us know that she was not actually climbing on the post office, but the New Orleans court house….and being that it is a federal building, Sonja would get in a federal amount of trouble for messing around on it. Needless to say, we apologized and the officers were kind enough to allow us to make our way home for some much needed rest.
7/10/2012
![Picture](/uploads/1/2/5/5/12556517/2457499.jpg)
Sno-Yum!
Day two in New Orleans started off perfectly. Sonja had awoken early and made her way across the street to pick up coffee for everyone. So, we sipped our coffee and showered and made our way back out onto the streets.
We headed away from Bourbon St.. and went to a shopping district, but first we needed to find a bit of breakfast. The first place we spotted was a little café that advertised Sno-balls; something we were told that we must try. It’s basically a snow cone with real, fresh fruit juice and condensed milk. The three of us split a strawberry flavored snowball. It was delicious…and who doesn’t like to start their day with dessert? But, this wasn’t going to fuel us for the long day of exploration we had planned. So, we walked another couple of blocks and came to a breakfast joint that Sonja was very fond of. Once we sat down and checked out the menu, we had all pretty much agreed that there was one item that simply HAD to be tried; we split an omelet made with avocado, brie and lump crabmeat all smothered in a creamy crab sauce. The lip-smacking richness was just what we needed.
We headed away from Bourbon St.. and went to a shopping district, but first we needed to find a bit of breakfast. The first place we spotted was a little café that advertised Sno-balls; something we were told that we must try. It’s basically a snow cone with real, fresh fruit juice and condensed milk. The three of us split a strawberry flavored snowball. It was delicious…and who doesn’t like to start their day with dessert? But, this wasn’t going to fuel us for the long day of exploration we had planned. So, we walked another couple of blocks and came to a breakfast joint that Sonja was very fond of. Once we sat down and checked out the menu, we had all pretty much agreed that there was one item that simply HAD to be tried; we split an omelet made with avocado, brie and lump crabmeat all smothered in a creamy crab sauce. The lip-smacking richness was just what we needed.
![Picture](/uploads/1/2/5/5/12556517/5892567.jpg)
Cool Building
Now that we’d had two breakfasts in an hour, we continued on to the shopping district, which was in the classic Louisiana style of wide sidewalks covered by balconies, the shops had large display windows and French doors. The girls ducked into several unique clothing stores while Jesse picked through some of the antique shops. After awhile, it began to drizzle a bit. This was a mixed blessing, in that we had to walk in the light rain, but it definitely cut the heat that we had expected to be unbearable in July. So, we wandered through very well to do neighborhoods, in awe of the architecture and mass of the classic southern homes.
Eventually, we made our way to a famous cemetery. Now the mild rain added to the gloomy atmosphere, making our walk even more enjoyable. It was really neat to walk through the Louisiana style cemetery where the graves are all above ground crypts. Realizing how easy it would be to get lost or separated and how creepy it can be when your sight is limited…anything could be lurking around the corner. We spent about an hour roaming amongst the graves, then headed for our next destination, The Columns Hotel.
![Picture](/uploads/1/2/5/5/12556517/6779176.jpg)
It was about another half an hour walk to get to the hotel where we’d been told that we must have a Sazerac cocktail. The hotel was a beautiful old place, incredibly tall ceilings, dark wood everywhere, and a grand stairway that split in two directions at the top. The classic architecture was mind-blowing and the décor was an amazing throw back to a more elegant period….and we were there, dripping from the rain, to have cocktails at noon….but who cares! We’re on vacation!
We ordered a round of Sazerac and got acquainted with the bartender…since we were the only people in the bar. We figured that in a place like The Columns Hotel, there had to be a few ghost stories. But, alas, the young man behind the bar didn’t know of any haunts or spooks (lame!). However, we did find out that there was a movie being filmed there…but he also didn’t know the name of the movie…so we’ll just have to keep an eye out for the hotel when we’re watching movies. We sipped our drinks as we dried out and did just a bit of exploring. But soon enough, it was time to move on.
We ordered a round of Sazerac and got acquainted with the bartender…since we were the only people in the bar. We figured that in a place like The Columns Hotel, there had to be a few ghost stories. But, alas, the young man behind the bar didn’t know of any haunts or spooks (lame!). However, we did find out that there was a movie being filmed there…but he also didn’t know the name of the movie…so we’ll just have to keep an eye out for the hotel when we’re watching movies. We sipped our drinks as we dried out and did just a bit of exploring. But soon enough, it was time to move on.
![Picture](/uploads/1/2/5/5/12556517/9874060.jpg)
Our Favorite Soup
We left the hotel and hopped on the trolley a headed back downtown. We were on the hunt for our next meal and we’d been told that there was a plate of white truffle macaroni and cheese that would change our lives. It took a bit of hunting, but eventually we found the spot called Capdeville. And our advisers were dead on; lives were changed. We started with poutine, french fries with cheese curds and gravy, and then moved on to the mac and cheese. We’d be lying if we told you that it wasn’t the best expression of this classic dish. It was made with truffle oil and brown butter, spiced with sage, a parmesan cheese base and few peas thrown in for texture and color. The white truffle accentuates the tanginess of the cheese in just the right way and the sage gave just a hint of hominess to a rather elegant dish (elegant mac and cheese?). It was truly outstanding.
So, we rolled ourselves out of Capdeville and headed back to the condo to get cleaned up for the evening’s activities. The girls played a bit of dress-up while Jesse put on a movie. After awhile, Jesse went out for some drinks, but also came back with a muffaletta; a Nola style sandwich that is an amazing olive and pickled veggies sauce. He picked it up at Cochon butcher shop, one of the most famous meat shops in New Orleans, which happened to be right around the corner from the condo….it was so good!
So, the three of us drank champagne and nibbled on muffaletta while we watched the end of the movie, then headed back to the French Quarter for some more fun.
So, we rolled ourselves out of Capdeville and headed back to the condo to get cleaned up for the evening’s activities. The girls played a bit of dress-up while Jesse put on a movie. After awhile, Jesse went out for some drinks, but also came back with a muffaletta; a Nola style sandwich that is an amazing olive and pickled veggies sauce. He picked it up at Cochon butcher shop, one of the most famous meat shops in New Orleans, which happened to be right around the corner from the condo….it was so good!
So, the three of us drank champagne and nibbled on muffaletta while we watched the end of the movie, then headed back to the French Quarter for some more fun.
![Picture](/uploads/1/2/5/5/12556517/3666826.jpg)
Oysters and Eggplant
On the way, we stopped at a bar and had a couple more Abita Strawberry beers and took one to go. By the time we actually made it to Bourbon St. it was getting close to 11pm. Our plan had been to have grilled oysters, but the restaurant we had intended to eat at was closed. So we asked a taxi driver where the best place to get some oysters was and he directed us to another place that we had actually considered the night before. We sat down at the bar and ordered a big plate of grilled oysters, fried eggplant and a bowl of turtle soup. The oysters were swimming in a spicy cream sauce and parmesan cheese, the eggplant came with a succulent Cajun remoulade and the turtle soup was hearty with a deliciously gritty lentil texture. Not that any of us were hungry, but there wasn’t a thing left on our plates.
We headed back out into the night with the idea that we would check out an absinthe bar that Jesse had heard was excellent. But when we got there, the people sitting at the bar gave us all a really bad vibe, so we decided this place was not where we wanted to be. And with our bellies gorged and our minds slightly addled, we snagged a taxi home and tucked in.
We headed back out into the night with the idea that we would check out an absinthe bar that Jesse had heard was excellent. But when we got there, the people sitting at the bar gave us all a really bad vibe, so we decided this place was not where we wanted to be. And with our bellies gorged and our minds slightly addled, we snagged a taxi home and tucked in.
7/11/2012
Understandably, this morning started a bit more slowly than the previous day. We ate some delicious tomatoes that Aunt Jeannie sent with us from Tennessee and had some coffee as we eased into the day.
When we made our way out of the condo, we headed back to the shopping district to try some renowned Mexican food at a spot called “The Flying Donkey”. The chips and salsa were never ending and veggie burritos were done just right.
After lunch, Jesse had made a plan to walk down to the river and take the trolley back down to Canal St. where we could catch the ferry, another recommendation, and get a great view of the city from the water. Unfortunately, Jesse didn’t realize that the trolley didn’t run so far West, and when we got close to the river, there was no trolley…however, there was a torrential downpour. So we ran into the closest building with a roof...which happened to be a Walmart (boo). We did our best to entertain ourselves as the storm passed, but eventually it seemed like it was a better idea to brave the elements than stay in Amurica’s most ridiculous melting pot. Again, it was unfortunate, because we got 300 yards from Walmart when the heavy rain set in again. This time we ducked into an empty coffee shop that was being remodeled and called a taxi.
When we made our way out of the condo, we headed back to the shopping district to try some renowned Mexican food at a spot called “The Flying Donkey”. The chips and salsa were never ending and veggie burritos were done just right.
After lunch, Jesse had made a plan to walk down to the river and take the trolley back down to Canal St. where we could catch the ferry, another recommendation, and get a great view of the city from the water. Unfortunately, Jesse didn’t realize that the trolley didn’t run so far West, and when we got close to the river, there was no trolley…however, there was a torrential downpour. So we ran into the closest building with a roof...which happened to be a Walmart (boo). We did our best to entertain ourselves as the storm passed, but eventually it seemed like it was a better idea to brave the elements than stay in Amurica’s most ridiculous melting pot. Again, it was unfortunate, because we got 300 yards from Walmart when the heavy rain set in again. This time we ducked into an empty coffee shop that was being remodeled and called a taxi.
![Picture](/uploads/1/2/5/5/12556517/7565234.jpg)
Cafe DuMonde beignets
It seemed like a ferry ride wouldn’t be quite as much fun in a monsoon, so we had the taxi take us to Frenchman Street (known as the Bourbon Street for locals). We walked around for a bit, jumping from dry spot to dry spot, checking out little shops and cafes to avoid the worst of the weather. And eventually our plan actually worked and the rain let up. And lucky for us, Frenchman St. is very close the French Market. So, we headed over there. Once again, the ladies took off to do some serious window-shopping while Jesse scouted the stalls for oddities (and ate an alligator sausage). We spent perhaps an hour at this before we regrouped and made our way to Café Du Monde for some beignets and chicory coffee. As we sat in the powdered-sugar laced, open-air café, we listened to some street musicians and let our feet rest a bit from the day’s walking. It was nice to relax for a bit with our French doughnuts and coffee, but we still had some more things to do, so we paid our bill and continued back through the French quarter.
![Picture](/uploads/1/2/5/5/12556517/3872262.jpg)
Street performers
Kim and Sonja were on a serious hunt for the perfect dress and Jesse was looking for the perfect place for dinner. As it worked out, the owner of the best dress shop was able to recommend an excellent restaurant up the street. So, while the girls continued to peruse the shop’s wares, Jesse went up the street and ordered appetizers and cocktails. Everyone’s luck held out, Kim was able to find an amazing dress and Jesse drank some really creative cocktails. When Kim and Sonja joined Jesse after they had finished shopping they ordered some refreshing drinks and we all shared a shredded brussel sprout salad with apples and hazelnuts and some beet bruschetta with chevre cheese. It was all super refreshing and helped us cool down before we all headed back to the condo to say goodbye to Sonja, who had to return to Florida that night. When we got back to the condo, we all relaxed for just a bit and helped Sonja get packed for her journey back. We said our goodbyes and unwillingly sent Sonja on her way.
Kim and Jesse decided to go back to Capdeville for one more serving of truffle mac and cheese, but that wasn’t all! We also tried an appetizer of smoked salmon deviled eggs that were out of this world. After dinner we slowly strolled arm in arm back to the condo, taking in every last bit of New Orleans before turning in for the night and getting rested for the trek to state where everything is bigger…Texas.
Kim and Jesse decided to go back to Capdeville for one more serving of truffle mac and cheese, but that wasn’t all! We also tried an appetizer of smoked salmon deviled eggs that were out of this world. After dinner we slowly strolled arm in arm back to the condo, taking in every last bit of New Orleans before turning in for the night and getting rested for the trek to state where everything is bigger…Texas.